Saturday, October 31, 2015

Finishing My Trip- Antarctica


FINISHING MY TRIP IN ANTARCTIC
Ushuaia, Argentina
December 2007


There was real melancholy as we sailed away from the continent and headed north to Argentina.  We all stood on the back deck and took pictures right up until the continent just became a big blur in the horizon.  And then we were back in drake’s passage again. We have two and ½ days until we reached our port in Argentina but we all felt a little sadness that night.  To compensate for this lost, most of us spent the last two nights in the bar until closing.  We just did not want to waste another minute of not being together.


We spent these days exchanging addresses and business cards and photos.  Great promises of getting together were made. Victoria made several announcements that she was starting an email list for anyone who wanted to be included.

There were still lectures during the day and we had a forum on the future of Antarctica.  We all approached the topic with a new sense of confidence on the subject matter now that we had explored the great white continent. And we all had opinions about tourism and its future limits.

Then, all of the sudden it was Tuesday morning at 630AM, departure day.  Susan woke us up over the PA system and immediately began to give instructions on how to disembark the ship.  And you could just feel the tension rise in everyone with every word she spoke.  There was heaviness in ending this wonderful trip and leaving all our new friends. 

We hurried to get our luggage out in the hallway for the porters.  Then there was an anxiety about getting on the right bus (either to the airport or to the luggage terminal).  There was a panic in making sure you got to the people you wanted to say your goodbyes to and this was complicated by not knowing if that person was on bus 1 to the airport, bus 2 to the airport or bus 3 to the luggage terminal.  Then there was the moment when you wanted to find the staff because you couldn’t leave the boat without letting them know how much you appreciated all of their knowledge and help. Then you had to make sure you found you luggage, on the dock, and got it on the right bus.  Regretfully, this last nerve racking assignment left everyone to forget about each other and just stay focused on the stupid luggage.

I was on bus #3.  My flight was not until 700PM so I had plenty of time.  So, as the first two busses rolled off, I begrudgingly watched them disappear forever. And as I inhaled the last bit of the carbon monoxide poisons from the tail pipes, that sunken feeling of sadness that I get at the end of every great trip just devoured me.  And I thought to myself:  There goes a group of people who so greatly enriched my life for such a short period of time and I will probably never see them again.

Heading to the Gobi Desert




Heading to the Gobi Desert

Mongolia
Monday, July 10


Today we leave Ullan Baatar and head to the Gobi desert. We are going to spend a few days there in a lodge right in the heart of the desert.  I am excited. 

There was an air of excitement all around us.  The prime minister from Russia was coming.  And multiple police were on every corner.  He was staying at our hotel so traffic was annoyingly congested. Today is the day of opening ceremonies for the national  Naadam Festival.  And all of the activities were happening right near our hotel.  People were everywhere and most people wore their ceremonial dels (jackets)  and hats. 

We left town and headed for the airport.  And then we had to wait and wait and wait.  The prime minister came in his private plane while we waited. And I think that delayed things for all of us.  We ran into another tour group and listened to their tales of woo.  They went up to the Lake District which was flooded because of the rains.  Their driver drove right through the rain and a low lake and nearly drowns everyone on the trip.  As we were introduced to each person in the group, the story was told and retold again and again.  I lost interest in the story. I just wanted to get going and get to the desert.

We arrived in Gobi around 300 PM and it was very windy.  We struggled to get  to our jeep which took us 45 km to the Three Camel Lodge.  The ride was great.  Once we drove out of view of the airport, we did not see anything until we were in view of the lodge, 30 minutes later.

We could just see a flat horizon ahead of us for miles.  Occasionally we would see animal skulls which served as destination markers.  We saw some gazelles but not much more.

Our lodge was wonderful. It is all made out of grey stone.  There is a huge, open dining room which has spectacular views of the desert.  I have my own tent (ger). The ger is great. It is big, clean, dry, roomy, and pleasant. I have my own personal attendant who has asked me twice if there is anything he can do for me. I think I will ask him to start a fire for me later this evening. There is a small bar – The Thirsty Camel.  That is built underground and similar to the caves in the country.  The lodge lobby shows movies and we have already watched the Weeping Camel.

The desert is beautiful.  It is peaceful, massive, intimidating, windy, powerful, frightening and inspiring.  It is like the ocean.  It can cut you down to size pretty quickly and it can humble the best of most, if not all, egos.

I went out to shoot photos of the shepherd herding his flock home for the night.  But the whole time, I paid attention to my bearings. The camp grounds were not going to go out of my sight of vision.  Without the lodge, I would have had no bearings whatsoever.

We were supposed to take a road trip after dinner but the winds were too strong. Elaine thinks we could have trouble if these winds continue like this.  Personally, I would like to see a strong, wild wind storm, provided I do not have to suffer any consequences.

1030 PM:  I just got back from my massage.  It was wonderful. Now I am lethargic and filled with a gleeful delight in myself and my predicament.  I wander outside and take in the moment.  There is a full moon which lights up a small portion of the desert.  The rest of the desert is dark and black.  There is a strong breeze and I have to put my jacket on.  The cool air feels great.  The wind is loud and rattles inside my head. I am on top of the world, In the middle of nowhere.  If I wandered off by myself, I could be lost in five minutes and never found again.  I better stay put.


Friday, October 30, 2015

You All Stand Alike

You All Stand Alike

Perryville, MD
October, 2014

It is late at night. The grocery store will close in ten minutes so we, the last few customers of the night,  are all running around, trying to get our last minute items. I am at the deli counter, minding my own business when the deli worker asks me, "are you a principal or something? I don't know, maybe a teacher?"

I eye him up to see if he looks familiar as he had to be a former student to ask me that question.

"Were you one of my students", I demand to know. Then I tell him that I used to be a high school principal for most of my career.


"No", he tells me, "I have five kids so I see a lot of their principals. You all stand alike."

Thursday, October 29, 2015

The Outrigger Canoe Trip


The Outrigger Canoe Trip

Costa Rico
Spring 2011

When I was in the midst of my manic floatation vessel acquisition period (2004-05), I had the opportunity to bid on a 40’ teak outrigger canoe that once belonged to a DuPont.  It was given to him as a wedding present from some king in some Polynesian country.  And now, 40 years later, the family of this now deceased DuPonter was unloading it at an auction and I put a bid on it for $200.  Needless to say. I didn’t get it.  And thank god for that because it would have cost 10 times that just to move it to my house.  But it was gorgeous and I loved it and I did have a moment of regret for not throwing caution to the wind and bidding like crazy. And there are days when I continue to obsess on this misfortune.
Anyone, its five years after this missed opportunity and I still want to ride in an outrigger canoe. So the trip I picked for Costa Rico is the outrigger canoe and snorkeling trip. Perfect.
It’s a beautiful sunny day. And everyone is in shorts.  And I am in my long kayaking pants and long sleeve shirt and big ass floppy hat.  And when asked why I am not in shorts also, I have to give everyone my usual statement “The sun is not my friend.”  Everyone agrees with me.  But no one covers up and some of those bodies should have been covered up.
We drive over an hour to a beach and are greeted by young men who are beach bums and they have the perfect jobs for them.  We are treated to mango juice and the sounds of macaws screech at us from the top of the trees.  Something spooks them and they emerge from the canopy and cover the sky and their presence stops us in our own tracks. We watch and point until every last one of them is now completely out of our view.
We head to the shoreline and find two beaten up canoes.  Our SAS information told us that these canoes were USA safety certified.  One look at these canoes and I think to myself “these certifications have expired.”
But no matter. We are given quick instructions in paddling and then we are assigned the task of pushing the canoe in the water. We all grab on to the side of the vessel and begin to push with gusto. Of course, no one is waddling at my slow pace.  So I am almost run over by the outrigger.
We all hop in and I find that the paddling is quite relaxing.  We were instructed to paddle on the opposite side of the person in front of us.  And at various intervals, the guide in the back would shout out “Olt” and in unison, we raised our paddles straight up in the air.  And then he would shout “Ot” and we lowered our paddles and begin to paddle on the opposite side.
And at just the right time, he would shout out, “Ok, we take a break now.”  And we would rest our paddles on our laps and just drift a little bit as we quickly took photos of the beautiful scenery that surrounded us.
We landed on the beach and got out and I wondered how the boats were going to get back to our starting point.  I was expecting to be picked up by our van at this point.  I was tired.  That’s when I found out that we would hop back in later on and we would paddle back, against the current.
We traversed over some rocky terrain for a short while and we came to another beach area.  We all took a dip in the cool water that wasn’t too strong in current. And I brought my camera in with me as I wanted to see how waterproof the camera really was.
Then we prepared to go snorkeling in this area.  Now, of course, I brought all of my snorkeling equipment with me.  But I left it on the van which I thought would be meeting us at this point. So now it sits on the van and I am once again using shity, gross, overused equipment.  Our guide has smeared toothpaste on the goggles as an anti-fogging technique.  So the first thing we have to do is clean off all the excess toothpaste.  We are not even given flippers because the water is so calm.  And so we walk out together beyond the surf and submerge ever so slightly in the cool water.
The snorkeling is easy and we see lots of fish but not lots of variety.  But that is ok with me because I am very pre-occupied with my waterproof camera.  And not only was I taking still shots at this point, But I’ve decided to try my hand at making movies under water as well.  I feel like Jacque Costuea.  I am bringing a whole new world to life in my camera and it is thrilling.
At one point, I pop up and look around and the group is way ahead of me.  So I make an attempt to catch up to them.  I go back to my photography and I check up on my situation again.  Now I am farther out than everyone else.  I have to head back.  I am out beyond my comfort and nagging thoughts of drowning are plaguing me.
Once I am back on the shore, I rejoin those who did not snorkel. And they are sitting in the shade, enjoying freshly cut pineapple and watermelon.  And we sit and eat and laugh at our good fortune and enjoy each other’s company.  We are all grateful for the moment.
But now, it’s time to paddle back.  And as we re-board the canoes, the skies get a little darker and we all hope we make it back before the afternoon showers. We paddle back with fewer breaks and less energy.  And as we are approaching the shores, there is a clap of lightning.  And our paddle energy picks up dramatically.  We reach the shore and quickly get out of the canoes.  We made it just in time.  The skies open up and a slight rain falls on us.  And the warm rain feels nice on my cold, wet body.




To read more stories, check out:   bkmemoirs.blogspot.com
 or  bkmemoirs.wordpress.com



Wednesday, October 28, 2015

Last Day of Our Wellness Program- Haiti

Last Day of the Wellness Program
Haiti family Initiative Wellness Program
Jacmel, Haiti

Friday, August 9, 2013- today is the last day of our Wellness Program.  Our five- week program is over. Our doctors leave tomorrow and camp closes today. As we leave our hotel, I am filled with anxiety.  I expect a difficulty day.  I anticipate the neighbors are also anxious about our departure.

When we arrive at the compound, there are already too, too many people waiting for us. They are everywhere. There is lots of tension at the camp.  People know we are leaving tomorrow. Today is the last day these people will receive free medical care for another year. So all of our 100 medical cards have been given out by 600AM.  But there are plenty more who want to see the doctors. People are begging me to let them in even though they don’t have a ticket.  They are desperate. They are pulling on my sleeves, pleading with me for anything and everything.

Too many others wandered into the compound for no other reason than to score some free medicines or pick up a free pair of eyeglasses.  If supplies are going to be given away, today is the day to score a handout.  So lots and lots of people have made their way through the gate, encroaching on our limited space. 

We tried our best to keep the gate closed.  But people still sneak in. They are everywhere. They are becoming a bit aggressive.  And while I do not think anyone would purposely hurt us, I worry about the growing crowd and their hopes of leaving with something tangible.  If there is just the perception that we are giving something out, we could have a riotous situation.

We had a group who gathered right outside the medical clinic.  We chased them away several times but they quickly return. Now we demanded that they leave.

People are on the benches, waiting to be called to the intake bench.  People are on the benches right outside the clinic.  For some reason, people are lined up right against the wall, just waiting.  They don’t have a medical card and they aren’t waiting for the doctor.  They tell me they are here, waiting for their children in the camp.  But this is a ridiculous statement as no one looks after their children. They are waiting in case just in case we have some supplies to give out. 

Now there is a crowd that is gathering right outside the medical clinic. This is a younger crowd, maybe 15 or 20 people and they will not comply with my request to leave.  They are demonstrating a slight attitude of defiance.  They are not willing to surrender an opportunity to get something for free. Much to everyone’s surprise, I had to take someone by the arm and escort him out of the compound. I had to break up these clusters of people and I had to do this quickly. So I ask Max, Jeams, Lucien, Monell and Antoine to help me kick people out.

“The only people who can be in the compound are the people who have a ticket to see the doctors.” I tell them.  This would now bring our crown down to a manageable group of 200 down to 50 people.

The men start to help but they don’t quite have my idea of what it means to kick someone out.  They aren’t aggressive people by nature.  So it is hard for them to take control. And this moment calls for ugly American behavior.  So I have to resort to my loud, aggressive, high school principal voice and we begin to clear the crowd. After half an hour, we have cleared everyone out.  Several of us stand guard at the gate.

By noon, the final lunch of smelly sardines, beans and rice has been served and cleaned up.  Adeline wants to keep the plastic bowls for her family dishes.  She is grateful for the gift of 100 chipped plastic bows. The camp kids have all gone home. The last patients have been given an ample supply of medicines and the medical clinic is now closed and we are all focused on cleaning up and putting the summer program to bed.

Now it is just the volunteers and the translators. I really wanted the neighbors to leave because I have a big problem on my hands and I don’t want people interfering with our situation.  We have hundreds of dollars of medicines that expired in March.  I have to make a decision as to what to do with all of this stuff.    I can give them to the local hospital; I can offer them to local doctors and pharmacies.  I can discard them.  Or I can store them for another year and leave next year’s volunteers with the burden to take care of this problem.

So we put phone calls in to every connection we have. We were able to find a doctor who took a whole suitcase of medicines back to his practice.  The nearby orphanage took lots of supplies and medicines. The local hospital and the pharmacy would not even touch the medicine.  There are few laws in Haiti and apparently the expired medicine law seems to be strictly enforced.  So now I have no other choice but to discard this pile of drugs.

There is no good trash collection solution in Haiti.  People just throw their trash everywhere.  The landfill is the local beach.  I didn’t want all of these antibiotics ending up in the water.  I didn’t want the yardman to burn the medicine for us.  This quantity needs to be handled in a secured incinerator.  Otherwise, all those chemicals would be floating through the air for every mosquito to ingest and then become immune to them.

I call on the mayor and he comes over.  He puts in a few phone calls and he assures me, he will take the drugs and incinerate them in a safe, secure manner.  I am not comfortable with his reassurance but it is the best option I have.  So the translators and I empty bottle after bottle of antibiotic drugs in a hazardous waste bag.  This kills me as so many people could have benefited from all this medicine.  What a lost potential.

We clean up, lock up and wander across the street together to the local café for one last beer together.  I take a moment to look back at the Salvation Army Compound and think to myself, “what a shithole.  I’m going to miss this place”.


The other volunteers and the translators decide to make the journey up to swim at Basin Blue Falls.  I hop on a motorcycle and head back to the hotel. I am not interested in the falls and really, I could use a few minutes to myself.  The Wellness Program is finished and so am I.