Monday, May 7, 2018

Nepal- Week Six


Nepal- Week Six
Kathmandu, Nepal
November 13, 2017 to January 9, 2018

I am in Nepal for 8 weeks, teaching for the World Academy for the Future of Women.  I will be teaching college women how to be global leaders with the focus on the UN Sustainable Goals.  I am going to travel a little bit during this time.  This should be an enjoyable 8 weeks.

Monday, Dec 18-Thamel

I read in the newspaper that the new ruling party is committed to appointing a cabinet with at least 33% women.  I wish the USA would make the same commitment.

I went at noon to meet my taxi driver who was to take me back to Imadol.  Traffic was heavy so I didn’t worry too much when he wasn’t at our meeting spot right at noon.  But when a half hour passed, I became worried.  It was particularly worrisome because I didn’t have a cell phone or his number or a clear understanding of where I actually live.  I was able to use someone’s phone (but I had to pay her $1) and call Nirmala who called Danese, the driver, who forgot that today was Monday.

Tuesday, Dec 19- Imadol

I walk outside to go to lunch and I see Laxima, my 76-year-old neighbor in the courtyard.  She is bare chested and getting ready to wash her hair by the hose. As I wander up the street, I see several people in front of their homes, taking bucket baths.  Today must be bathing day.

In class, we talked about menstruation and taboos.  They are not allowed in temples or the kitchen when they have their periods.  They are not allowed to touch men at this time and it is an expectation that they are honest and open about when they are menstruating. They don’t like it but they do not think they have any other alternative but to comply with years of shame.

Wednesday, Dec 20- Imadol
I asked my students to tell me what are their hopes and dreams for the new year.  They want to be happy and make their parents proud. One student wants to be more courageous.  She wants to go out of her house alone after 8PM but she is afraid.  So, she is planning to travel solo on a three-day bus trip to a city in the western part of the country.  I don’t know. This sounds like an ambitious trip.

Thursday, Dec 21- Imadol
Today is my last day of teaching. I am going to miss these young women.  They are filled with great ideas, passion, a commitment to better the world and a strong sense of what Nepal needs to do to help women.  At these moments, I wish I could stay longer so that I can see their continued growth.

Friday, Dec 22-  Imadol

One of the students posted a video about menstruation, a continuous conversation we have had last month.  They know that the rest of the world does not shame women and they don’t want to be treated this way anymore.

I asked, “Do you mothers insist you follow this rule of purity? “

She responded, “Yes, they do.

I told her, “it's hard to break away from traditions. what will you tell your daughters?”

“I will not ask and even allow them to follow such traditions,” she adamantly told me.

if more women follow your lead, this tradition will be gone in less than a generation,” I fired back.  And to me that seems like a very short time to bring about such a big change.  But I am sure this must seem like a life time for her.

Saturday, Dec 23- IMADOL

Nirmala, Jebin and I went to the    temple. I was here almost 20 years ago and remember that I could not enter the temple because I am not Hindu.  But this time, I was able to get closer to the cremation site.  That is what interested me the most.  On this day, someone was being cremated and I got to get as close as standing on top of the roof of their shelter.  I wanted to take a look at the body.  I wanted to know if this was a young person or someone who lived a long life.  I couldn’t tell as the body was so fully covered in hay that is was hard to distinguish a form.  The family sat quietly.  They didn’t seem to be in sorrow.  They appeared to be there solely to make sure the body was completely burned.  I didn’t stay to the end as Nirmala and Jebin were waiting and couldn’t understand my fascination with the moment.

“What were you thinking when you were watching,” Nirmala wanted to know.

Sunday, Dec 24-IMADOL

It’s Christmas Eve here but there is very little sign of any Christmas celebration. Nirmala hosted a Christmas dinner for me.  There were 7 of us. Jebin gave me a blue cashmere scarf.  Aardant brought some of the rice whiskey that is made at home.  I offered to pour the first round as I wanted to make sure I only had a taste and not a full glass.  AArdant poured himself a hefty drink and another and another and then had to go home after 2 hours. It was a kind celebration and I was grateful.


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