THE BOATMAN
Ganges River
Varanasi, India
July 2015
He sees me slowly coming down the treacherous flight of
stairs one at a time. I am making my way
to the evening ceremony at a nearby ghat.
The people at my hotel tell me this ceremony is one of the more
spectacular ceremonies on the Ganges River.
When I am safely at the bottom, he greets, “Good evening
madame, where you from?, LA, Chicago, New York City, Florida? People come from all over the world to see
this beautiful ceremony”, the boatman tells me.
“Would you like to have a ride in my boat? I take you to ceremony in my boat. Only 600 rubies”.
“A boat tide is only 100 rubies. That’s what I paid yesterday” I tell him with
complete fabrication. Another guide,
looking for my business, told me to pay only 100 rubies an hour. That was the going rate.
“Yes”, but new price today,” he quickly retorts.
“Where is the ceremony?” I ask, searching for any visible
signs of the event.
“Right up there, you can walk there in less than one
minute. I walk with you and later you
take a boat ride with me, OK Madame.”
This relentless pandering is wearing me out.
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