Sunday Afternoon at the Beach- Jacmel, Haiti

Sunday, July 28, 2013- Jacmel, Haiti- We go to the beach for dinner on a late Sunday afternoon.  For the first time, I see the middle class, people who have expendable income.  There are over a 1000 of them, in the water, wandering around or sitting at tables.  Hundreds of people are romping in the water.  Small boys hold hands and safeguard each other from the tides and undertow. People are in bikinis and swim trucks.  I am the only one in long sleeves, worrying about sun burn.

The beach is a walking market. Men weave in and out of the crowds with steam pots.  For 50 cents, they will sell conch on a cup.  Five pieces and hot sauce just hit the spot on this breezy afternoon. Little girls pester us to buy chicklets and lollipops. A man sells beads for women’s cornrows.  Whiskey tables line the beach.  For another 50 cents, small boys chop open the top of a coconut with their large machetes.  Cool coconut milk runs down my chin and neck as I try in vain not to spill a single drop.

Some people have brought their portable audio systems speakers with them.  Adele sings “Rolling in the Deep” to all of us.  Couples are kissing.  We sit at one of the rickety old tables, lining the beach.  We order fish and beers.  For $3, a whole grilled fish is brought to each of us.  Lips, eyeballs, tails, bones and all are picked through.  We spit the bones on the gravel beach.  When we are finished eating, our waitress throws out plates, forks, bottle tops, fish bones and napkins on the beach. Shamelessly and heartbreakingly, the high tide will sweep this beautiful area clean. 

The sun sets but not the presence of the moment.  The breeze makes this oasis so desirable.  When it gets too dark to see, we leave and head back to the stale, heavy heat of the city.
For more stories about my time in Haiti, please of to Bridgetkellyinhaiti.blogspot.com